I just literally “came across” something. The border between Bavaria and Baden-Wurttemberg that is, right inside the city of Ulm in Southern Germany. Ever since I’ve set out on a journey to trace the German part of the Danube river upstream, I’ve really come to look at it with different eyes. But instead of just looking at the river reflecting the cityscape of Ulm, I have something quite different in mind this time. “Here is the entry point,” says Dirk to me, pointing to a dirt road leading down to the Danube. “I’ll watch you from the river bank and shoot some nice photos, okay?”, he adds, smiling. That and a few more words from Robin, my SUP instructor, and way I go enjoying the second ever SUP lesson of my life! On the Danube river. Of course. (My very first such lesson, by the way, also took place in Germany, near the city of Leipzig).
SUP, short for “Stand Up Paddling”: A really cool way to explore the Danube river, as well as the city of Ulm! Photo (c) Dirk Homburg / Ulm/Neu-Ulm Tourismus
… love the feeling of floating down the Danube river, which is quiet and reassuring here, no boats or anything to make you tumble and splash ! Photo (c) Dirk Homburg / Ulm/Neu-Ulm Tourismus
Loved my SUP lesson, and filming my instructor Robin as he performs some tricks on his board. You should really try this out for yourself, it’s less difficult than it might look ..! Photo (c) Dirk Homburg / Ulm/Neu-Ulm Tourismus
Next up, Dirk takes me to the inner city of Ulm. Since I have read that the cathedral, or minster, of Ulm possesses the highest church tower in the world (a good 161 meters in height, thus even slightly higher than the world-famous Cologne Cathedral!), I knew I just had to come and see it. And indeed: The bell tower soaring into the sky, as well as the entire construction and its unique history, inspire me. Add to that, the lively atmosphere of a small city market, or the quaint little “Fischerviertel” district with yet another superlative, the “world’s most inclined hotel”, and you get the feeling that Ulm really has a lot to offer. Check this out.
Soaring to the sky, the cathedral’s organ inside the church …
… surrounded by this rather lovely square, bustling with life in the summertime.
From there, it is but a stone’s throw to reach the popular “Fischerviertel”, hinting at a trace of the Alsace region, and Strasbourg, in particular …
… and there you go, unique to Ulm as well as the world: The world’s most inclined hotel, as proclaimed by the Guiness Book of Records! Would you stay there ..? My tip for you, is that a knock on the door can get you a free visit, in any case at least!
Ulm, I’ll be back! What a lovely city you are.
From Ulm, we take to travelling on into Blaubeuren. Just twenty minutes’ drive from Ulm, you will find the most extraordinary natural & cultural “wonders of the world” ..!
And again, one superlative follows the next, which fascinates me even further on my journey tracing the Danube river upstream: Here, very close to the small town Blaubeuren, the oldest human statuette in the world has been found, still to be admired in the local area history museum. Then, there is the unique “Blautopf” freshwater spring, the “second-most water-rich spring of Germany”, which in size and color even surpasses my memory of comparatively similar freshwater sources in New Zealand or Canada (think Banff and their ink pools in the Rocky Mountains). Enormous. And as if all of this were not enough, we even went around historical Blaubeuren with the “Donauroller”, a happy Segway ride that is. Whoa!
My tip for you starting to discover Blaubeuren: The local area history museum, featuring bilingual English & German displays …
… then, I recommend you to go for a short ride into the nearby valley, where old firestones like these, thousands of years old, are to be found as tools by early mankind …
… Iris, one of the most passionate and enthusiastic archaeologists I have ever met, will take good care of you there.
Only recently, the so-called “Caves and Ice Age Art in the Swabian Jura” have been recognised as UNESCO World Cultural Heritage, and rightly so: In my hands, I hold a replica of the very first human figure found here in a karst cave along the ancient Danube valley floor. Touching to know this rather handsome 42,000 years-old figure is obviously a woman!
Also, do not miss paying an extended visit to the mesmerising fresh water spring known as the “Blautopf” …
… whose natural pool bank features an old forge, where even today, creative courses in forging your own little souvenir take place, and beautiful ironware is being wrought!
We enjoy the summer evening in Blaubeuren …
… as part of an entertaining, and educational …
… ride with the Segway: Thank you for the nice pictures, dear Klaus! Check out www.Donauroller.de for more.
And finally, do stop at this inn here in Blaubeuren, really worth your while for the good quality of local fare and cosy atmosphere.
Last but not least, and even further towards the source of the Danube river, “Donaubergland” makes for a fairy-tale like escape.
Finally, my journey along the Danube river has become entirely calm, as the Danube, too, becomes a small, narrow river, which winds its way gracefully through the landscape before it. There is one particular detail to it, though: The river completely disappears at a place marked “Donauversickerung” (Danube swallowing). Like, what?! But it’s true. In fact, the Danube, shortly after its source in the Black Forest, disappears underground for a while, only to emerge again and flow calmly a few kilometres further downstream. An interesting natural phenomenon – and one among many I have already marvelled at throughout my entire journey through Bavaria & Baden-Württemberg.
The “Donaubergland“, then, is best explored hiking. Oh, how I could lose myself here for hours and hours, despite (or because?) of the countless, numerous signposted paths. Even a part of the Way of St. James, which I have just returned to in northern Spain a few weeks earlier, leads along here! My tip: Look out for the so-called “Donauwellen” (Danube waves)! No wind or current is necessary to produce them, no. Rather, this term refers to the area’s most popular circular hiking routes, as well as a local delicacy, a cake made of black & white chocolate as well as sour cherries. Do. Not. Miss. ..!
Forever beautiful, to be travelling in this particular landscape “Donaubergland” …
… including cultural treasures thrown in, such as Beuron Monastery in this case …
… and also, as mentioned, a top destination for hikers of all levels and kinds …
… enjoying the many vantage points overlooking the lush green Danube river valley.
Thank you so much for this wonderful day together, dear Anita …
… and for introducing me to the “Donauwellen” Danube cake …
… or how about homemade Bratwurst, such as these ones served at the Hotel Gasthof Sonne in the local town of Fridingen …?
And yes, you must go and visit the place where the Danube river literally slips aways, drowning in an underground swallowing only to reemerge again later!
They’ve got a nice little cafe & beach bar open during the summer months, too!
Last but not least, check out my travel video about Baden-Württemberg, guaranteed to make you want to explore the Danube river on your own …!
More pictures about my journey are here:
Check out my other blog post about following the Danube river in Bavaria, too, including lots of useful tips in order to plan and organise your stay!
Disclaimer: I have been invited by on this trip by the German National Tourist Board. All opinions are my own.