For the second time in my life, I have won a trip – to Germany. It’s five days of culture and a little bit of luxury: where I toured Portugal with my mum when I won my first trip eight years ago, this time I treated my husband and I to a city break in Franconia, Upper Bavaria. A wonderful stroke of luck, especially as the weather was also in our favour with lots of sunshine and mild temperatures.
Public transport from Vienna to Franconia: Crossing city, country, river by bus and train.
Parents who, like us, luck out on being able to leave the kids with the grandparents every once in a while (THANK YOU, Oma and Opa!) are willing to accept longer and sometimes more complicated journeys to reach a destination – it’s free time from parenting after all! Once – to get from Eichstätt to Dinkelsbühl – we had to change trains no less than four times! Still, altogether it was much more convenient to use public transport on this trip from Austria to Germany, covering the 1000 kilometres from Vienna to the Franconian cities in just over four speed train hours.
Eichstätt: The city tour “Of breweries, pubs and thirsty throats” says it all.
Our travel prize includes a city tour in each of the four cities we visited. The one after arriving in Eichstätt is, typical of travelling in Bavaria, about the city’s history as explained by … beer. Practically everyone drank beer in this country, because beer was considered both medicine, food and stimulant all in one!
But please do not mention Bavaria around here – Franconia, really, the “Franken” region is the true identity of the area we have travelled through, and the Franconians are still very proud of it.
We arrive in Eichstätt at the IBB Hotel Eichstätt …
… catching this wonderful view of the city of Eichstätt across the river.
We manage to get under the skin of the historical old town thanks to a great, welcoming city tour.
And we can recommend you dine at Höllbräukeller Eichstätt: wonderful, typical local cuisine.
Dinkelsbühl: One of the 10 most beautiful old towns in Germany according to FOCUS magazine.
I think we liked Dinkelsbühl best on this trip, along with Rothenburg – even though the four towns we visited couldn’t be more different in terms of their individual history. However, the phrase “most beautiful old town in Germany” is certainly true. Dinkelsbühl is extremely picturesque, clean, colourful, majestic, impressive and comparatively relaxed.
The fact that our prize here even extends to a stay at the five star Hotel Goldene Rose, including a night in the rose suite on the top floor and its infinity pool with a view towards Dinkelsbühl Minster makes our stay even sweeter. Eating ice cream in early summer temperatures, tasting pretzels and veal sausages and enjoying a wonderful tour of the town: we have made really fond memories of Dinkelsbühl.
The annual customs festival of the Kinderzeche gave me the idea of visiting Dinkelsbühl with our children one day: According to legend, it was the town’s children who saved Dinkelsbühl, softening the hearts of the attacking Swedes during the Thirty Years’ War. A beautiful anecdote about a truly terrible time in Europe.
Hotel Goldene Rose …
… with its magnificent infinity pool.
The picturesque old town …
… welcomes us to typical wooden facades called Fachwerkhaus …
… including the splendid gothic church …
… the guided tour through the old town …
… and the possibility to enjoy an early summer ice cream together!
Rothenburg ob der Tauber: the rise, fall and rise of a world metropolis in miniature.
Thing is: All of the Franconian towns we have visited are very, very small compared to what we generally call cities (a little over or under 10,000 inhabitants, Ansbach was the “bigger” exception with around 40,000 inhabitants).
But in the Middle Ages, five or ten thousand inhabitants were many. Our tour with a night watchman in Rothenburg reveals just how these inhabitants lived in Rothenburg and, even more interestingly, how they organised their everyday and social lives (I’ll just say “baker’s baptism” and “Köpfleinwiese” …). I haven’t had such a vivid history lesson for a long time! Absolutely recommendable.
After its decline during and after the Thirty Years’ War, Rothenburg lay dormant for a good 200 years: the Romantic painters “and now the international tourists have brought it back to life”, reveals Robert Nehr, who welcomes us from the local tourist office.
Almost six years ago, I was also a guest in Rothenburg on my trip along the Romantic Road Part II : Driving from Würzburg and Taubertal valley to Rothenburg, Augsburg and Landsberg.
Hello, pretty Rothenburg in spring!
A view towards the town’s most iconic photo spot.
I’ve also like this lane near the main market square.
Must-Do in Rothenburg: Walk almost the entire old town on the historic battlements (pictured here on the right).
Also: enjoy a typical Franconian sauerbraten with potato dumplings and apple and red cabbage. Mmmh!
And of course: Sign up for the tour with a historic night watchman in Rothenburg!
Rothenburg is, after all, really pretty at night.
Or from above (the climb up the town hall clock tower is well worth it for the views).
Ansbach: Magnificent historical administrative centre and a court garden with ancient lime trees.
As previously mentioned, Ansbach is by far the largest town on our journey to discover Franconia. As the seat of government and administration of Middle Franconia, as well as the former margravial residence town, Ansbach is well developed, as we quickly realise on our tour of the old and new town.
We visit the two imposing churches of St Johannis and St Gumbertus as well as the Margravial Museum. Our city guide has many interesting anecdotes to tell.
Brauhaus Hürner, our hotel, also offers a really nice restaurant for dinner …
… including a taste of “Franconian Tapas” inAnsbach!
The ancient lime trees in the town’s courtyard garden, more than 300 years old, made a huge impression on us.
Our city tour again reveals many interesting, historical facts to us …
… and Ansbach, too, has really grown on us during this trip.
Discover more about Franconia as a travel destination by reading: Travelling the German Route of Delights: Tips for visiting the town of Wertheim. and Romantic Road Germany Part I : The City of Würzburg.