Absolutely delightful. That is what I would say even now, a few weeks after our trip to Lublin region in eastern Poland. In fact, the county of Lower Poland, as the locals call it, is almost unknown to us living here in Austria – despite its relative geographical proximity.
Krakow, the UNESCO World Heritage city with its breathtaking (Jewish) history, might still be known yes. But beyond Krakow …? Let me show you what families in particular can gain from venturing further into eastern Poland.
The world before my eyes … Liam with a view of this magnificent wooden ship on the Vistula River, in Kazimierz Dolny, near Lublin.
Top accommodation for families: Golebnik Farm and Guesthouse.
It is only a few hours’ drive from Krakow to reach Ewa and Tomek at Golebnik organic farm and guesthouse. We received a tip to go beyond the usual highway connection, and make a stopover in Sandomierz (read more about the picturesque little town here).
Our hosts who then welcomed us for three days are more than just hosts: We arrived as guests, but left as friends – with a firm intention to come back. Ewa and Tomek are just so sweet, talk so refreshingly about their own careers, their motivation, share amazing organic food with us, wow. Every day, they cook both breakfast and dinner for us. A real treat. Check this out.
Arriving in Golebnik: We enjoy the magic and the peace, a peace that’s only broken by the loud singing of frogs …
… all of us, including the kids, sleep really well here …
… and early the next morning …
… there’s room and energy for new discoveries.
I love how they’ve rebuilt the original barn …
… into a modern common room, where breakfast and dinner are served every day.
Breakfast means having the entire organic farm on your plate. Very tasty indeed.
As a book worm, I love that there’s no TV, but so many more books instead.
What’s left to say other than: Ewa, Tomek, we would really like to come back!!
Kazimierz Dolny with its wild Vistula River and the “Hill of the Three Crosses”.
A little further away, around 15 to 20 minutes’ drive from Golebnik farm, you can visit the small town of Kazimierz Dolny. It is located directly on the Vistula River, one of the last large natural rivers remaining in central Europe.
From the so-called Hill of the Three Crosses, I have a fantastic view of the old town, the surrounding countryside as well as the river landscape. Its strategic position is what made Kazimierz Dolny rich: goods stored in mighty granaries were shipped from here to all corners of the Polish empire at the time. Even today, warehouse buildings converted into hotels, seminar centres or private residences bear witness to the fame of the former trading city.
Kazimierz Dolny is well known for its mighty granaries …
… the city by the Vistula river …
… attracts us to its well-cared for , cultural heritage …
… it’s from up here, the “Hill of the Three Crosses”, that you get the best view of the surrounding landscape …
… and a short ride with one of these tour buses …
… or a quick visit to the local playground will keep the kids happy for sure.
Rare gems: Exploring Miećmierz and the mighty Root Gorge.
Very close to Kazimierz Dolny, directly on the Vistula River, we find the settlement of Miećmierz. We look around – and discover an old barn turned into artists’ meeting place, as well as some of the typical, thatched-roof houses. There is also a car ferry across the river from here, but on the day of our visit it is closed due to high water. Otherwise it would have been a great adventure for Liam …!
Visiting Miećmierz: Liam at the local village well.
We discover the old barn as a room for many events …
… and enjoy finding well translated snippets of history being presented here.
The Vistula River in its natural state.
Right between Golebnik and Kazimierz Dolny lies another natural gem that you must visit: The so-called Root Gorge, or Loess Gorge, as it is also called because of the typical loess soil here.
Nice and cool in the summer months, this natural monument is worth visiting especially with (young) children. We adults were also impressed by the unique soil and root formations.
Liam climbing inside the Root Gorge near Kazimierz Dolny.
The prevailing natural formations here are truly impressive, the walk through the loess gorge a beautiful experience for the whole family.
Calling all #winelover travellers: Mickiewicz Winery has been pioneering winegrowing in this part of Poland.
Last but not least, we sign up for a guided tour and tasting with winemaker Maciej Mickiewicz. Maciej, we learn, actually started viticulture in Lower Poland some 20 years ago, after taking inspiration from *drum-roll* our very own Austrian wine country!
His single-varietal vintage wines are delicious, and very good to drink. Due to climate change, growing wine in Poland is set to increase even further. We learn from Maciej what excatly makes the local terroir so appealing, a terroir that has varities like Johanniter, Zweigelt, Solaris, or Cabernet thrive.
Winemaker Maciej Mickiewicz is up for any kind of fun, his distinguishing feature (and also company logo!) are his rubber boots!
We taste around seven different varieties, starting with Pet Nat …
… learn more about soil and climate conditions here in Lower Poland …
… and again, leave like friends and with a few bottles of wine for the journey: Thank you, dear Maciej, for your time and hopefully see you again in Austria very soon!
Travel Video #PolandSoulTravel
Join me on my trip to Poland! My travel video will lead you to explore eastern Poland, around the town of Lublin. A short interview features our fantastic hosts Ewa and Tomek, of Golebnik Guesthouse. We were truly impressed by the multitude of things to see and do around here.
Check out even further impressions about Krakow and eastern Poland here:
Disclaimer: I have been invited by the Polish Tourism Board on this trip to Krakow. All opinions are my own.