The so-called “Route of Delights” in and around Wertheim in Southern Germany is THE destination for gourmet travellers. The term extends from purely bars, wineries or restaurants to partner businesses promoting spice delights, tobacco delights, shoe delights, or offers related to work-life balance.
Curious (or hungry)? Then read on!
Spices are his life, he would be lost without his nose: spice pope Kilian Holland, who inherited the honourable nickname from his father Ingo Holland and is about to pass it on to his young daughter, as seen in his shop “Altes Gewürzamt” in Klingenberg near Wertheim.
Attractions in section 2: “Where half-timbered romance meets diversity”.
Diversity and “half-timbered romance”: wherever we look on this section of the Route of Delights, I discover one photogenic half-timbered house after the other. For me, the term diversity stems more from the variety and diversity of the partner businesses that can be found on this section of a total of six on the Route of Delights.
Caution: The following variety of pictures and experiences may whet your appetite!
The town of Wertheim, at the confluence of the Main and Tauber rivers, lies at the heart of the Route of Delights. From here, several sections lead you to travel and discover the entire region around Wertheim.
Freudenberg: The Ziegler Distillery and the Heimathof Rauenberg Farm.
We start our trip with a tour of the Ziegler distillery, known as a master distillery at the highest level. Ziegler brandies, whiskies, spirits or liqueurs are known far beyond the borders of the Wertheim region, as they come “from the best fruit we can find”, says “the youngest master distiller with the longest experience”. His name is Paul Maier. We follow him around the distillery grounds, quite intrigued by his tales.
The Ziegler distillery also has a good presence on Instagram and even dedicates a separate Social Media account to its latest product, the “Ziegler Zeitgeist“, an aperitif made with wild flower ingredients. From tasting it I can say: it’s a hit. After the tour, I buy a bottle to take home with me and spoil my friends and family!
Ziegler Zeitgeist: Nomen est omen, the perfect summer sprizz …
… the modern tasting room of the distillery …
… a glimpse into the cellars …
… and a taste of Ziegler Zeitgeist. Cheers!
Close to the small town of Freudenberg is the district of Rauenberg, where we pay a visit to the so-called Heimathof Rauenberg. It combines a farm, an event as well as a co-working location that lacks nothing of the cosiness of home!
I am impressed that a young couple with three small children and their extended family have settled here to create something completely new out: Farm shop, co-working spaces, conference rooms, lounges, a barn for weddings, music events and much more. Check this out.
We talk to the owners of the Heimathof Rauenberg …
… take a look around their farm shop …
… see the old barn, carefully restored as a modern event location …
… and meet the family Weis and team: congratulations on all your efforts!
Bürgstadt: Winery Stich “Im Löwen”.
A little further along the Route of Delights, in Bürgstadt on the Main river, we are welcomed to taste a selection of traditional and modern wines from the Stich winery. Typical for the region are mineral, powerful Silvaner and Weissburgunder wines, which are served in the Bocksbeutel bottle, a rather unusual treat for me.
Several times a year, including at the time of our visit in April, the estate tavern “Im Löwen” opens as what is known as Häckerwirtschaft. The sight of it reminds me of our Buschenschank, or Heurigen taverns, in eastern Austria. Well, you are sure to be well wined and dined here, in the Churfranken district of Southern Germany!
Welcome to the Stich Winery in Bürgstadt: Be sure to plan time for a short hike along the Franconian Red Wine Trail. I would have loved some more time here.
We take a look behind the scenes at the Stich winery and talk to the young winemaker in the barrel cellar …
… with so many good wines to choose from, it is hard to decide which bottle to go for.
Miltenberg: Shoe culture Russmann and the tobacco house Magne Falkum.
Next on our journey along the Route of Delights, a very special duo welcomes us: master orthopaedic shoemaker Ludger Russmann and his colleague Tanja Stumpf, both really passionate about making and improving shoes.
How does a master shoemaker come be part of the Route of Delights? “Sometimes, I am not so sure myself”, Ludger Russmann says modestly. Only gradually do we learn more about how he built a successful shoe business completely tailor-made for this clients, working together with the Berlin shoe manufacturer Trippen.
In a flash, I remember the passion of another master shoemaker I met in Vienna about three years ago: Markus Scheer. His manifesto “The foot knows everything” is still on my bookshelf today, I’m sure Ludger Russmann would love reading it too!
Tanja Stumpf and Ludger Russmann offer individual custom-made shoes in Miltenberg.
A view of the sales area …
… and a picture of the duo themselves.
As we continue, we digress once more from the purely food or wine related aspects of the Route of Delights. Time to visit one of the “oldest and most renowned addresses for the art of tobacco” in all of Europe!
Gerhard Falkum welcomes us to his Magne Falkum Tobacco House, filled with fragrances from the many tobacco blends bought or created by him and his father. Some of them have been made for very prominent clients, as he tells us with a wink. Anyone who lands here can’t help but notice the extraordinary variety of pipes and cigars – probably the largest I’ve ever seen.
The Magne Falkum Tobacco House …
… is a true paradise for those wishing to indulge in tobacco and its products.
Klingenberg: Altes Gewürzamt (Old Spice Office).
Last but not least on our journey along the Route of Delights, I would like to recommend a visit to the pretty little town of Klingenberg, especially the “Old Spice Office” (Altes Gewürzamt in German).
As I mentioned at the beginning, it is the home of “spice pope” Kilian Holland and his family. His knowledge of spices is truly all-embracing, and Kilian strikes such a jovial chatty tone that he would pass for a good friend of a dear acquaintance.
The son of legendary spice pioneer Ingo Holland, Kilian guides us through his factory of fine spices, all of which are mixed and produced by him personally and his team. “Try this. And this. My daughter particularly likes this mixture. And these spices go best with …” He is already one step further, holding the next tin of spices under our noses, laughing as we sigh contentedly time and again: “I’m telling you: spices are the soul of every dish. Without spice there is no life, not in the kitchen, not anywhere else.”
Thank you for a truly inspiring visit, dear Kilian Holland! Next time I would very much like to have time for one of the regularly offered cooking classes at the Old Spice Office (Altes Gewürzamt).
Tip: The pretty little town is also worth a visit. This picture was taken just behind the Old Spice Office in Klingenberg.
Großheubach: Gasthaus Zur Krone Restaurant.
After reading through all of the above delicious travel tips, I’m sure you’re hungry now: I am too! Be sure to head to the Gasthaus Zur Krone Restaurant in Großheubach, then. The family business Niki and Ralf Restel serve great wines or beers to accompany the delicious meals made from local, regional ingredients.
A view of my plate during the asparagus season …
… we enjoy our time at the Gasthaus Zur Krone Restaurant in full. Be sure to book in advance!
Travel video “Route der Genüsse”
Also, check out my video about travelling in both Eastern Styria, as well as the Wertheim region in Southern Germany, both hot spots for gourmet foodie travellers.
Further images from my trip are displayed in this picture gallery:
Disclaimer: I have been invited on this trip by the Wertheim Tourism Board. All opinions are my own.